Rendezvous with Sleeping Buddha

Sleeping Buddha from Sandakphu
Sleeping Buddha from Sandakphu

Located in the Singalila National Park, Sandakphu (3636 Mtrs) is the highest point of West Bengal. The Sanctuary is home to Himalayan red panda, barking deer, black bear and leopards. Apart from several varieties of trees there are rare orchids which embellish this sanctuary. From Sandakphu, you see a 360 degree view of Himalayan Range which includes four of five highest peaks in the world- Kanchendzonga, Everest, Lhotse and Makalu. The trek is ideal for a first timer as it has well defined trails and enough lodges with good food on the way. Best time for this trek is from October to January in winters and from March to June in summer. The Park is closed from June 16 to September 15 for the tourists.

The most conventional route to Sandakphu usually starts from Maneybhanjan through Chitrey and Meghma. However, we chose the rhododendron forest laden route of 6 km from Dhotre to Tumling (2970 Mtrs).

Foggy Morning at New Jalpaiguri Station
Foggy Morning at New Jalpaiguri Station

We reached New Jalpaiguri Station on a foggy winter morning. Unfortunately since it was transport strike in the area we retired for the day at a hotel.

Kids of  Dhotre
Kids of Dhotre

Next day we started as early as 05:00. Watching a fascinating sunrise on the way,we reached Dhotre after 6 hours drive from Siliguri via Mirik. It is mandatory to hire at least one guide from Dhotre for the trek. In April-May; the forests on the way from Dhotre to Tumling gets colourful as rhododendron flowers are seen in full bloom. On a clear day, you get to see Kanchenjunga on your right on the way to Tumling.

Walking through Rhododendron Jungle
Walking through Rhododendron Jungle
A Rhododendron in full bloom
A Rhododendron in full bloom

Walking through the jungle pathway laden with dried leaves we reached Tumling at 16:00. Dusk was just setting in. At the entrance of this settlement, there is a signpost of the West Bengal government. A little further on the right, another post says: “Welcome to Nepal”. Walking straight down, you actually are in Nepal. We turned left and reached the gates of the Shikhar Lodge, our stopover for the night.

Reaching Tumling
Reaching Tumling
Kitchen of Shikhar Lodge
Kitchen of Shikhar Lodge

The Kitchen of Shikhar lodge felt heavenly. It was extremely cold outside and the kitchen was the only place which kept was somewhat warm. While Roti was being made in a coal fire, we were provided a Sigri to keep our hands and feet warm. After a sumptuous dinner, we retired to our rooms.

Mt. Kanchenjunga seen through Tele Lens at Tumling
Mt. Kanchenjunga seen through Tele Lens at Tumling

Next day before sunrise, we went back near the first signpost. On our right a spectacular sunrise was about to begin; on our left was the mighty Kanchendzonga. As the sun steadily crept up, its rays fell on the snow-clad Kanchendzonga range, which was shining like molten gold.

Walking down hill from Joubari
Walking down hill from Joubari

Post breakfast we started our second day’s trek around 9:15. After paying the entry fees for permits at the office of Singalila National Park, we continued our trek on the stone-paved paths. The 1964-built Land Rover is the only vehicle which could negotiate these stone studded routes. From the village of Joebari we took a right turn and started our descent through a zig zag down hill pathway having loose earth. After a downhill walk of 75 minutes we reached Gauribas which has a military base. Now was the tough part – to trek uphill 1500 feet to Kalipokhri via Kayakatta.

A Landrover - the only vehicle in Sandakphu Route
A Landrover – the only vehicle in Sandakphu Route

At Kayakatta, some of our group members were panting. We decided to take a break and treat us to some local Gundruk soup for instant energy. The sun had just set in as we reached the lake of Kalapokhri (3010 Mtrs). We settled down to our rooms at Chawang Lodge. There was a sudden drop in temperature. Despite having laden with enough warm clothes we only felt relieved after having some Sikkim Rum.

Early next morning we went for a stroll near the Kalapokhri Lake. It is said that due to some medicinal quality, the water of this lake does not get frozen. At present the water do get frozen sometimes during the months of December and January.

Sunrise at Kalapokhri
Sunrise at Kalapokhri

After viewing a fascinating sunrise, post breakfast we started our uphill journey of 6 km to Sandkaphu. Negotiating a huge ice patch right on our path near Bikeybhanjan, we reached Sandakphu at around 14:46. At Sandakphu, a steep turn to your left brings you to a signboard which says “Singalila National Park”. Leave nothing but foot prints and take nothing but memories.” We settled down in front of fireplace at the Sherpa Chalet Lodge.

Sleeping Buddha at Sunrise from Sandakphu
Sleeping Buddha at Sunrise from Sandakphu

Next morning, we were treated to a spectacular view. Here snow laden peaks create a shape like a man sleeping on his back. This shape is popularly known as “Sleeping Budhha”. The peaks which form this shape are namely Janno, Koktang, Ratong, Kabru (North and South), Mt Kanchendzonga, Simvo, Japuno and Pandim (From left to right). The sunrise was special as the sun came out over a huge mass of clouds, pretty much like you see from the window of an airplane. The sun rays falling on the “Sleeping Buddha” with clouds covering 42 km in front of it made the place look like paradise. By now we could see the Everest Range on our extreme left which comprised of Everest, Lhotse and Makalu.


Normally people walk downhill from Sandakphu and reach Sirikhola via Gurdung for the night’s stay. Others move to Rimbick and end the trek that very day. We took it easy and stayed an extra day at Gurdung too. Gurdung is a small little picturesque hamlet which people use a stopover for lunch on way to Rimbick. However, we settled down at the nice wooden rooms offered there. With moonlight around in the valley, we had a nice song session at night – indoors!

Siri River at Sirikhola
Siri River at Sirikhola

Sirikhola is another beautiful settlement with the beautiful Siri River flowing by. We had a nice slow shutter photography session there and in the night we had delicious Chilli Yak as a surprise!

Bonfire at Hotel Sherpa
Bonfire at Hotel Sherpa

All good stories come to an end. In our last day we reached Rimbick (2286 Mtrs) in two and half hours walk from Sirikhola. In the night our hosts at Hotel Sherpa made a bonfire in the lawn where we joined in. Listening to local song “Bir Gorkahli” accompanied by Guitar, we were reminiscent of our memorable trek to Sandakphu.

Map of our Trek to Sandakphu
Map of our Trek to Sandakphu

1.Our Route

2.What to wear
Carry enough warm clothes specially woolycots, Hollowfill or Feather Jackets.Wear good trekking shoes which are light with good grip

3. Walking tips
While going uphill take ten steps stop a bit till your breath is normal and then take another ten steps.


  • A beautifully written travelogue.
    Is there any share car/jeep facility available from Manebhanjan or Darjeeling to Dhotrey?

      • Thank you sir. I have another query. Is it a sane idea to trek down Manebhanjan from Tumling and reach NJP by afternoon/evening?

  • Pratick

    could you please state the cost of stay in tumling ?

  • Sir, I will planned a trip of Buddha in feature. Last year, my whole friends have enjoyed here, but i missed it due to health problem.

  • Sarit sekhar Das

    Hello sir, I want to know that if there is any guide available from dhotre, or we have to hire it from manebhanjan? And is it possible to reach tonglu on that very day we reach dhotre without staying there? Please provide any contact no. of a good guide of dhotre. Its urgent. Thank you.

    • Guides are available from Dhotre…there is a local office for booking guides too at Dhotre..porters are available too…All guides are more or less same as the route is pretty well marked…

  • Ayana Ghosh

    Hello Amitabha,
    First and foremost your photography is wonderful. We are a family of 6 travelling to sandakphu by road this february end. Will it be accessible during 26th feb? Can you kindly provide with the number of sikhar lodge,tumling. Where do you suggest to stay in sandakphu?

    • Sorry for replying late. I still do not understand why people wants to go to go to Sandakphu by road…the roads are super bad… and those who will seat in the back seat of land rover is bound to have a rough time. Trek to Sandakphu….come out of your comfort zone….

      For booking of Shikhar lodge …try Keshav Gurung, brother of Neela Didi at Shikhar Lodge. Phone: +91-9232695120, 9564797551. For Sandakphu… try Sherpa Chalet

  • abir

    its is advisable to go with a 4.5 years kid if we are going in a Land Rover? Does the Sandakphu height create any breathing issues?

    • After getting down from the landrover, your 4.5 year old would probably write a 100 times ” I will never ride a landrover again.”

      The problem is not with the height, but with the ride. Your bones will get loose. Plus with sudden gain of height, it may cause problem.

  • Hello Mr.Gupta,
    Do you have any known contact for chibo inn? If yes, plz provide.

  • Utso

    At which month of the year did u travelled to sandakphu,sir?? we want to travel in february 2016..please give some suggestion about the feasibility of the tour..

  • Hi Amitabha Gupta,
    Can you please provide me with the contact no of Shikhar Lodge? And any idea about the temperature of tumbling in January? Will it be feasible and advisable to visit tumbling with 3.5 yr old kids in the month of January?

  • Rahul Goyal

    hello Amitabha Gupta…….
    Sir I want to know that before reaching jaubari bazaar before Garibas and after tumling…there is a small temple of Durga maa and shivji……can u plyz tell me the history of that temple………..if u plyz focus on my interest it will be very glad…thankyou sir

  • Sunanda Ghosh

    Dear Amitava,
    Read your travelogue and it is fantastic with superbly taken pics . We are also going to plan the same trek via same route in coming January. Would you please share that how you booked the accommodations in all the places, is it pre-booked or you got it instantly ?
    If possible pl. share the booking details with contact no.

    • No idea about pre booking… but unless you want luxury accommodation like Sherpa Chalet, there is no need. You get it on spot and what kind of room you will get depends on availability.

      I went with my tour operator friend Indranil Kar, who arranged everything before hand.

      • Sanjay

        Hi Amitabha,
        Can you give contact details of Indranil Kar. Thanks.
        Also, how is Sherpa Lodge in Dhotrey?

  • surjayan adhikary

    Hi Amitava,
    very well written and the pics add to it even more. could u please tell me the total duration of the trek, start

    • The Trek was in total of 6 days starting from Dhotre and Ending at Rimbick. If you do not halt at Gurdung and Sirikhola, you can complete it in 4 days.

  • Hi Amitava,

    I went thru your travelogue about Sandakpu. Very crispily written – not one of those long detailed write-ups which make you feel lot. Very well done. But more importantly, I like the photos you have taken. Very nice framing, and well taken.

    Good job!

    Pushpak 🙂

    • Dear Pushpak,

      Thanks for liking the travelogue and the photographs.


      Amitabha Gupta

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